Klagenfurt From a wide-eyed novice, Rebecca Morrison, a few enthusiastic impressions. Ah, Klagenfurt… even now, I almost sigh as I say the name, the images conjured up are like those of a garden of Eden for readers – except that, here, biting from the tree of knowledge is encouraged. It is an idyllic setting, not so far from the border to Slovenia, with Venice just a two-hour drive away and Trieste, that improbable city, within easy access. And yet Klagenfurt is unmistakably Austrian, from the architecture of the pretty old town, wide squares, cobbled streets and all, to the menus of schnitzel and dumpling that sit with comfortable heaviness in the stomach. Then too there is the lilt of the language, and that alluring mixture of ‘properness’ and laidbackness. And all nestled on the shores of Lake Wörther, where it’s a pleasure to swim into the evening sun. This town was home to Robert Musil and the fascinating Christine Lavant who led a life of austerity and left behind some wonderful poetry and more recently discovered short stories and vibrant letters, all under the guardianship of the Musil Institute, directed by Professor Amann, and the Musil Museum, headed by Dr. Strempfl, both generosity personified in terms of time and infectious enthusiasm. The doors to those archives open like those of the wardrobe leading to Narnia – a fine place in which to lose yourself. And this is only one aspect of the unexpected richness of the experience that is Klagenfurt. That one of the major events in the German-language literary calendar takes place in a small town in Austria is one of the first surprises for someone from the Anglo- American world: surely Vienna alone should host such literary activities? But no, there was, and is, Graz with its important impulses and nominated Cultural Capital of Europe in 2003, and there most certainly is Klagenfurt. Klagenfurt is also the perfect example of what to a British reading public may come as a surprise – in German-language countries readings, listening to authors, discussing books in public forums, is widely popular, trendy even, and conducted with an intensity that is a world away from Richard and Judy’s book pick. The Ingeborg Bachmann Competition, held here, illustrates this, and one of the many things to admire about it is its accessibility to the reading public – breaking down the barriers between ‘them’ and ‘us’, welcoming participation (there is a running exchange on the internet and a ‘Publics’ Favourite’ prize). The principle of open discussion in every department is one of the unique qualities of Klagenfurt. Yes, there is something of the improbably enchanted, slightly unreal, about the Klagenfurt experience, but that has more to do with the natural beauty of the place and the unfurling of tired publishing and journalist souls than any diluting of the power of the written word. This is a world away from the half-hour scurryings of the Frankfurt or London book fairs. Here, there is as much mingling as could ever be wished for: authors meet critics meet editors meet jury members meet local readers – and there is no sense of rush. The lake is tantalisingly close, and where better to start impromptu dialogues than on its shores? The town too is generous with receptions held both in the week of the competition proper and during the workshop organised the week before for the benefit of younger writers. And for all the relentless criticism aimed at the writers – who well know the bloody arena they are entering – the overriding memory for many will be of warmth and openness, a rare atmosphere where editors from the various publishing houses, critics, and writers gather, where agents retract their claws and clink glasses. Whatever the quality of the texts – and there were some very good ones this year (see review of Susanne Heinrich), and some truly excellent ones in the past (Feridun Zaimoglu and Emine Özdamar, Ursula Draesner and Birgit Vanderbeke – see Reviews and Backlist), one leaves Klagenfurt with the sense that German-language publishing, and the discussion and debate that is vital to it, is alive and well. Klagenfurt is the forum for those discussions as well as a springboard for new voices. A successful mix indeed. Same place, same time next year, Herr Mangold?